Snap Bag 

Materials:

Co-ordinating fabrics (scraps are great)  ½ inch longer and wider than the finished bag

Metal retractable ruler for cutting into sections

Interfacing or Floriani no show mesh…or something comparable for a pocket

Sewing machine, thread

Crafting scissors to cut the metal ruler, masking tape

optional: 2- 4 inch square for pull tab (not shown)

Directions:

Cut 4 rectangles the same size – 2 for outside and 2 for the lining. These should be about 1/2 inch bigger than the finished bag. Scraps of fabric could be sewn together to make your rectangles.

Cut 2 rectangles the width of your rectangles x 3.25 inches (we’ll call this the band)

OPTION: Cut 2- 4 inch squares for pull tabs. Fold each square into triangles by folding 2 opposite corners together and then fold the 2 layer triangle again to make a 4 layer triangle. Place the raw edge along the top of each outside rectangle, overlapping the edge a bit so it gets caught into the seam between the outside and the band.

With right sides together, sew 1 outside rectangle to 1 band, matching the widths.

Sew 1 lining to the opposite end of that same band, right sides together.

You now have a large rectangle that includes a lining, a band, and an outside.

Repeat this for the other side.

    (If you are adding a pull tab, top-stitch the tab along the seam between the outside and the band.)

Matching seams and with right sides together, sew together the two sections along one long side. Open flat.

Cut a piece of interfacing or I used Floriani no-show mesh to hold the ruler in place. This will be called the pocket. The pocket should be 1 ¼ wide and the same width of the bag, but check the width of the ruler to make sure it’s wide enough with at least 1/8 inch leeway to easily slide the ruler inside.

Working on the wrong side of the bag, place the pocket edge next to the seam where the band is stitched to the outside sections.  Do not sew the short edges of the pocket closed. Sew the pocket along the seam where the lining pieces are stitched to the band. Then stitch again to close the opposite side of the pocket. You now have a pocket into which the ruler will slide to keep the ruler inside the band section.  If you want the ruler to be along the top of the bag, mark the band with a line that divides the band in half from one side to the other and place the edge of the pocket fabric closer to that line. Stitch both long sides, but not the short sides.

Use your crafting scissors or a metal cutter to cut two pieces of the metal ruler. Both pieces will be 1 inch shorter than the width of one side of the bag. Round off the edges of both rulers. Wrap masking tape or painter’s tape around the cut edges for safety.

Slide rulers into the band making sure that the rounded side of each ruler faces the outside sections and are away from the open edges of the pocket. You can fold the bag in half, wrong sides together to make sure that they are facing the right direction to pop out to open the bag.

Place the right sides of the bag together, match seams and sew around the bag leaving a large opening in the bottom of the lining section. Clip corners to reduce bulk. Be sure to push the rulers toward the other side of the bag while sewing.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining.

Fold the lining opening in and sew or hand stitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining inside the bag.

   I’ve made snap bags before, but the ruler was added from the open edge of the band and then stitched closed.  This makes the bag easier to sew and cleaner on the outside. I used 3 different fabrics, but I was just trying to make use of scraps and an applique design I had created.

When my original ruler was used up I bought a narrower ruler. It doesn't seem to have the same "snap" as the regular width ruler if your snap bag is larger.