Snow White Apron

I wanted to duplicate this apron after seeing it on Pinterest, but it took me awhile to find just the right pattern.  Not only was the pattern just right, but it was the right price too, (under $2.00) AND it has 6 sizes - 3 child and 3 adult.  Look for A2319 - It's So Easy.  I found my pattern at Walmart.

IPod Touch Holder for Running

This is the 3rd or 4th Touch Holder I've made for running.  The first ones only used a clear plastic piece on the front and fabric on the back.  I found that the plastic torn easily because the velcro pulled on it when the straps were tight enough to keep the unit snug.  Today I got a brain storm and made the top of the holder out of fabric and then created a "window" inside it for the plastic.  I am more confident that this design will hold up better than the previous holders.  It has an elastic band to slip over your arm to hold it on when I tighten the velcro to keep it secure.  I know a lot of runners carry their device on their upper arm, but this design is meant for your forearm or closer to your wrist. I like being able to check my stats or pause it easily.

MATERIALS

You will need:

• 3 pieces of cotton fabric - 4" x 6"
• a piece of flexible, clear plastic; the type as is used for tablescloths or clothes.  It should be as big as the cotton fabric, but a bit larger is better
• A zipper, contrasting or matching - 4 inches or longer
• thead
• zipper foot
• buttonhole foot
• zig-zig foot
• 10 inches of soft velcro cut into 5 inch lengths
• a piece of  2" wide, soft elastic large enough to overlap about  an inch when placed around your arm. (It doesn't have to be snug.  The elastic holds it steady while the velcro keeps it snug
• scotch tape
• traced shape on paper of the outside of the touch (it's an oval 2.5 x 4.5 with rounded edges.

 Take two of the fabric pieces, right sides together, and place the traced shape in the center.  Sew around the shape through both pieces of fabric.

 Cut the center out, and bring the wrong sides together.  Pin the edges together and press with an iron.

 Place the plastic over the fabric "frame" and stitch in place.  If your plastic is larger than the frame it's a little easier to stitch in place.  If you stitch with the plastic touching the machine foot, you'll need to use a teflon foot.  You can also stitch with the plastic on the bottom of the frame and that works well too and you won't need a special foot.  If you find the plastic sticking, place a piece of tissue paper under between the plastic and the surface to which it is sticking.
Trim the plastic even with the outside of the frame.

 Take the third piece of fabric, and stitch a buttonhole in the bottom, left side, about 1 inch from the edge, for the headphone connection to fit through.  If your headphones have an angle connection, you'll need a larger hole than if the connection is straight.  Open the buttonhole with a sharp scissors.

Stitch the wide elastic in the center of the back piece going from one short side to the other.

Close the elastic by over-lapping the ends and then zig-zag the edges to keep the elastic from fraying.  I opted to not put the edges together because I didn't want to have a "lump".

To recap where we are:  The front is complete with a clear, plastic window.  The back has a buttonhole for the earphone to connect into the Touch, and there's a wide elastic band stitched to the back to slip over your arm for safety and to make closing the velcro (not stitched in place yet) easier.


Time to add the zipper.  Lay the zipper, right side down on the right side of the top (frame). I used the plastic side as my right side to protect my device from sprinklers or an unexpected rain. Stitch in place.  Turn the zipper right side up and lay the back fabric, right side down.  Match the edges, and stitch.

 When you open up both sides, the zipper will be in the middle and it should look like this.  You can trim your zipper if it's a little long.  Just make sure you hand stitch across the teeth while the zipper is closed to create a stop for the zipper pull.

 This is the trickiest part of the project.  Take each piece of velcro, and lay them on top of the frame.  The hook pieces will be on one side and the loop on the other.  I like to bring the hook to the back and loop from the back to the front when attaching it to wear.  It's a personal preference.  However, the hook tape faces DOWN when being attached.  The loop tape will face UP when being attached.  A zipper foot comes in handy to stitch them on since the seams are only about 1/4 of an inch.

Fold up the velcro and use removable scotch tape to hold them out of the way. Open the zipper so the holder can be turned right side out when all sides are stitched. It's also helpful to fold up the elastic to keep it out of the way for the next step.

With right sides together, stitch the front and back together on all three sides. Turn your new holder right side out.

Make-up Bag Project

It's been ages since I've posted anything, but never fear, I've not been idol.  Most of my projects have been duplicating items seen on Pinterest.  I saw a very nice make-up bag, and wanted to make a couple to give as gifts to friends with whom we will be staying this month.  I added a beautiful embroidery design from Embroiderylibrary.com, but it took three attempts to get it right.  Actually, bag one was a challenge since I foolishly decided to line it with plastic.  That caused some interesting moments when I needed to turn it right side out.  The most disappointing point was finding that I'd stitched the design too far down from the edge and it ended up on the bottom of the bag.  Bag two is a bit on the large side, and I wish I'd used a darker pink thread for the letter on bag three.

For complete directions for making this bag, go to www.trulymyrtle.blogspot.com

Just remember to center the embroidery so that the top edge is about 2 inches from the zipper edge.  It's easier to stitch the embroidery first and then assemble the bag.

Fish Extender

Disney fans are famous for decorating their hotel rooms and campgrounds, so it seems logical that on a cruise, they'd find some way to decorate their cabin doors.  This one is a prototype for a set that I may be making for guests taking a Disney cruise in January 2013 on the Disney Dream.

Fish Extenders get their names from the fish-shaped hook that is outside cabin doors.  They are initially used by the crew to leave messages, but of course, Disney fans can't just have a hook.  Besides a place for messages, passengers also leave surprise gifts for friends and family.  In case you're interested, this one measures  about 15 5/8 by 8 inches.  My original design was for one much larger, but I noticed from pictures on Google, that the space, in which the fish extender would hang, is not very big.

Our name using nautical flags.

The base, made of black denim, is 17 1/2" x 8".  The pockets are rectangles (11.5" x 10"),  interfaced, and  sewed into 5 inch tubes.  I sewed the edges if each pocket even with the edge of the base.  Since the tube is much longer than the base, I made a pleat about 1/2 inch from the edge so that the bias strip I used to finish the edge, did not catch the pleat.  

I surged the top edge, and folded it over 1 1/2 inches to make the pocket for the rod from which to hang it.  The rod was a small dowel rod with wooden balls glued on.  Of course the rod was too wide for the smaller balls I wanted to use, and was too small for the larger balls I had on hand.  Several layers of duct tape wrapped around the dowel rod before attaching the balls solved that issue.

The bias strips to finish the edges were 1 1/2 inch wide.

I couldn't find white ribbon with red polka dots.  Instead I used plain white ribbon and added tiny dots of red glitter paint for dots before forming the bow.  Works for me!

Plush Grocery Bag Holder

Plastic Grocery Bag Holder

I have many, in the minds of most people, waaaay too many, Disney plush dolls in my sewing room.  I decided to put at least one of them to good use by making a bag holder for it.  I opted to use Minnie because I had pink fabric that would make a great “dress”.

Materials:

• 1 piece of fabric - 18 wide by 17 inches long
• 4 pieces of matching fabric 6 wide  x 4 ½ tall
• Thread
• 2 small buttons
• 10 inches of ¼ inch elastic
• 1 - 10 inch plush doll or animal

I drew up this pattern for the bodice.  

Cut out 4 bodices, and sew the sides together so that you have a front and a back together, and then another front and back together.  Use a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fit one bodice inside the other, right sides together, and sew a ¼ inches seam along the arms and neckline.  Leave  the bottom of the bodice open.

Clip the curves and turn the bodice right-side out.

Sew buttonholes on the top of two of the shoulder tabs either on the front or the back of the bodice.

Making the bottom of the tube:

Starting one inch from the bottom, stitch the rectangle together to form a tube using ¼ inch seam.  Stop 7 inches from the top.

Where the tube is still open at the top and  bottom, fold the fabric over ¼ inch and stitch the fabric down.  This will form an opening into which you can enter and exit the casing for the elastic and an opening at the top into which you can put bags into the holder.

Fold the bottom to the inside, ¼ inch, press, and then fold it down again ½ inches.  Stitch along the folded edge, close to the fold.  You now have a casing for the elastic.

Thread the elastic into the casing using a safety pin to help guide you or a bodkin.  Use a safety pin to hold the elastic so it doesn’t come past the opening where you started. 

Fold a small piece of matching scrap fabric over the ends of the elastic.  Stitch in place.  Let the elastic slide into the casing.  The matching fabric will hold the ends together, but you won’t see where they were connected because the fabric matches the casing.

Using a long gathering stitch, stitch along the top of the bag, 1/4 inch from the edge.  Stitch another row of long stitches ½ inch from the edge.  Tie together the ends of all four threads at one end.  At the other end, pull two of the threads, from the same side of the fabric, to make gathers along the edge. 

Leave the bag section, right side out, and turn the bodice section inside out.  Pull the gathers to fit inside the bodice.  Adjust the gathers to fit evenly inside the bodice, and sew, all layers together, between the two rows of gathers.  If you are making this as a gift, you may want to sew the bag section to just the outside of the bodice and then turn the lining to the inside and hand stitch the lining down to cover the seam.

In several places, snip the row of stitching that is showing on the outside of the bag.  On the inside of the bag, pull the corresponding thread to the row of stitching you just snipped, and remove the extra row of gathering.

Sew the buttons to the tabs across from each button hole and you’re ready to dress your teddy bear, plush or whatever and pull them to good use.

I didn’t want to sew anything to Minnie, so I opted to just tie a string around her body, and hang her from the string.  The bodice on the dress hides the string.

Toddler Bib

I have given many bibs to new moms, but I rarely give exactly the same design more than twice.  I started out using washcloths with bias tape around the neck area and for closing.  I've also used terrycloth to make my own shapes.  These require serging the edges or using fabric to back the bib so the edges are stitched between the front and back.  Although very absorbent, I'm not sure that this wouldn't require a lot of dryer time.  So, today I tried this version.  I started with my all-time favorite, the washcloth, and just added the curved top.

I did my embroidery first.


Using a bib pattern that I found on-line years ago, I used just the top portion.  The pattern didn't quite go to the outside of the washcloth, so I just curved it out a bit and added a bit for a seam allowance.


Cut two tops, and with the right sides together, stitch the tops together.

I used a 1/4 inch seam, but I could have been a bit more generous with my seam allowance.
The pattern shows a triangle cut-out instead of just snipping around the curves.  I found that the cut-outs do work better though tedious to make.

Turn the top right side out.

Lay the front edge of the top along the top of the washcloth, right sides together.  Using 5/8 inch seam, sew just one layer of the top to the top edge of the washcloth.

Fold the top over the back, and turn the raw edge in.

Pin the back to match the front, and top-stitch to close.  I also choose to top-stitch around the whole top.


Add a strip of hook and stick tape (Velcro) to the top of one flap and the bottom of the other.

I'm not clever enough to include the pattern I used for the top.  Email me if you'd like a copy.

Baby Closet Organizer

This is not rocket science, but keeping up with the baby clothes that fit and those that are a bit too big....and then become too small before they even get used, can sometimes feel like something akin to rocket science.  I recently found an embroidery design that creates little disks; like those used in department stores.  I purchased the design, but deleted it in error before I got a chance to use it.  Unfortunately, the website where I found it, doesn't track purchases made while under a membership.  Since my membership was for 1 week, I was out of luck.  Floriani digitizing program to the rescue!  I think my design is actually even better than the original.  I haven't included instructions to make the organizers, but if you are interested, and have an embroidery machine, I'm willing to share my design.